GRAND CANYON

Grand Canyon North Rim: Hotels, camping, hiking and scenic drives

Weldon B. Johnson

The Republic | azcentral.com

If you've never been to the North Rim of Grand Canyon, you'll be surprised how different the experience is from the South Rim. Even on a busy day, the area is less hectic and more relaxed than the much more heavily visited South Rim. The experience is almost intimate, if you can use that word in relation to the yawning abyss.

But the season is fleeting: The North Rim is only open from May 15-Oct. 15.

Most people congregate around the visitor center and Grand Canyon North Rim Lodge, with its inviting patio and numerous overlooks. And it's usually hopping at the Point Imperial and Cape Royal overlooks. But you can find a lot of peace and quiet elsewhere on the North Rim. This guide will help you plan your trip.

Where to stay at the North Rim

Grand Canyon North Rim Lodge

These are the only accommodations at the North Rim. The property consists of the main lodge — which has a restaurant, gathering rooms and popular patio — plus several room options scattered about. From least to most expensive, choose from motel rooms, Frontier cabins, Pioneer cabins and Western cabins. Some Western cabins have rim views; the rest of the lodgings are set in the pines.

Details: 877-386-4383, www.grandcanyonforever.com.

Campground

The North Rim Campground has 90 spaces for tents and RVs set among the pines and is open from May 15-Oct. 31. Don't bother showing up without a reservation — you won't get in. Amenities include restrooms, showers, laundry, general store and dump station, but no hookups.

Details:www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/cg-nr.htm. Reservations: 877-444-6777, www.recreation.gov.

If you prefer dispersed camping, you may camp for free in the Kaibab National Forest outside the park.

5 miles outside the North Rim entrance

Kaibab Lodge

This rustic property dates to about 1926. The setting includes forest and meadow, and wildlife is abundant. It's a true getaway — there are no TVs or telephones, and you won't have cell service or Wi-Fi. Accommodations consist of cabins in configurations ranging from single to quad to fit groups of varying sizes. A restaurant serves breakfast and dinner. Kaibab Lodge is open from mid-May through mid-October.

Details: 928-638-2389, www.kaibablodge.com.

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In Jacob Lake, 45 miles north of the North Rim

Jacob Lake Inn

This one-stop property sits at the junction of U.S. 89A and State Route 67. In addition to motel rooms and cabins, Jacob Lake Inn has a restaurant, bakery (trust us — buy some cookies), small grocery shop and a gift shop with an extensive collection of American Indian art. A gas station is adjacent.

Details: 928-643-7232, www.jacoblake.com.

Kaibab Camper Village

This campground is in the woods near the Jacob Lake Inn. It's open from May 14-Oct. 31. Kaibab Camper Village has sites for tents and RVs (water, electric and sewer hookups available) and can accommodate RVs larger than 30 feet. There also are coin-operated showers, a laundry and a store.

Details: 928-643-7804, www.kaibabcampervillage.com.

Where to eat

There are three options at the North Rim Lodge. The Dining Room serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and has amazing views. Reservations at dinner are strongly suggested. The Deli in the Pines is the place to grab casual fare including sandwiches, salads and pizza. The Coffee Shop also sells muffins, pastries and breakfast burritos, and the Roughrider Saloon has snacks to go with adult beverages.

There are plenty of places to picnic at the North Rim — sites have tables and grills (bring your own charcoal) and some are perched right near the Canyon's edge. Pack a cooler and eat outdoors, or pick up supplies at the general store.

RELATED:Grand Canyon restaurants

Scenic drives

Cape Royal

From Grand Canyon Lodge, go north on State Route 67. To the right (east) about a mile beyond the well-signed North Kaibab Trailhead is the road that crosses the Walhalla Plateau to Cape Royal and Point Imperial, two don't-miss viewpoints. Follow it about 5 miles to a "T" intersection. Turn south and go about 14 miles to Cape Royal, one of the Canyon's premier viewpoints. A fairly short, easy trail begins on the southeastern side of the parking area and leads out over Angel's Window, a huge natural arch that juts into the Canyon.

Point Imperial

Point Imperial is just 3 miles north of the "T" intersection that also leads to Cape Royal. At more than 8,800 feet, it is the highest point on either rim and offers unrivaled views, especially of Mount Hayden and Saddle Mountain. An easy, 2-mile trail leads north from Point Imperial through an area burned by 2000's Outlet Fire. The trail officially ends at the park boundary, but you can continue on to the Nankoweap Trail and Saddle Mountain area.

Vista Encantada

This overlook, several miles south of the "T" junction on the way to Cape Royal, offers impressive views of the Painted Desert to the east.

Walhalla Glades Ruins

These prehistoric ruins, believed to be almost 1,000 years old, are on the west side of the road a mile or so north of Cape Royal.

6 hikes at a glance

Bright Angel Point: The paved, quarter-mile trail leads from the patio behind Grand Canyon Lodge out along a finger of rock to a magnificent overlook.

Transept trail: The 1.5-mile-long route snakes along the Canyon's rim northwest of the lodge to North Rim Campground and provides fine views of a side canyon known as the Transept.

Cape Final: About 2.5 miles before the end of road to Cape Royal is the Cape Final Trailhead. The 4-mile round-trip hike through woods is mostly flat and takes you to dandy overlooks.

Uncle Jim Trail: This 5-mile round trip starts at the North Kaibab Trailhead and follows the Ken Patrick Trail for ¾ mile. At a well-marked junction, turn south on the Uncle Jim Trail, which loops through a forested area to Uncle Jim Point, looking into the Canyon.

Widforss Trail: A terrific 10-mile round trip through the forest to a remote viewpoint. Much of the first half skirts the rim of Transept Canyon. The latter half ducks into the woods before emerging at a splendid Canyon overlook.

Ken Patrick Trail: This trail meanders 10 miles one way through forest from the North Kaibab Trailhead parking area to Point Imperial. You may want to arrange a shuttle or have someone pick you up at the other end. Some segments are sketchy, so bring a map and compass.

2 hikes off the beaten path

By the time you reach the North Rim, you've already left most of the crowd behind. But for even more solitude, try hiking one of the old forest roads that have been converted into trails over the years.

Francois Matthes Trail

This is a rather level, easy-to-follow path through pine and aspen. The overlook at the end is pretty brushy, so don't expect the sweeping vistas you'll find at Cape Royal or Point Imperial. But you'll almost certainly have the overlook to yourself. It's not a bad trade-off.

The hike begins from a dirt road about ¾ mile southeast of Cape Royal Road's Vista Encantada overlook. No signs mark the spot, so watch your odometer and look for the unmarked dirt road on the right.

At first, the trail meanders generally southeast through tall ponderosa pines and jumbo manzanita. The sound of Cape Royal traffic fades quickly once away from the trailhead, leaving you in a world of tranquil beauty.

The trail splits about half a mile from the trailhead; bear right. As you near the overlook, you'll start getting a few glimpses of the Canyon through the trees.

The point itself is something of a letdown, as you have to peer through brush to see into the Canyon. But scout around, and you'll find a couple of unofficial trails that lead down to more-open areas. (Warning: Watch your step.)

One such route yields tremendous views of Clear Creek Canyon. Elsewhere, familiar landmarks stand in unfamiliar directions — the distinctive peak of Zoroaster Temple looms in the southwest, while the massive butte of Wotan's Throne is seen in the south-southeast.

Return the way you came, allowing 5 hours for the moderately strenuous, 10.6-mile round trip.

Getting there: From the lodge parking area, drive north about 3 miles. Turn right on Fuller Canyon Road (a sign indicates the way to Cape Royal and Point Imperial). Go about 5 miles to a "T" intersection, then turn right onto Cape Royal Road. Drive 5.2 miles to an unmarked dirt road on the right (about three-quarters of a mile past the Vista Encantada overlook). Park off to the side of the dirt road.

Tiyo Point

This hike begins in a beautiful tree-ringed meadow, about 4 miles along the rugged dirt road that leads to Point Sublime. Other than a sign noting that the former road is closed to vehicles, the trailhead is unmarked, so watch your odometer.

The Tiyo Point Trail leads west at first, then makes a big curve to the south. Before long you've left the meadow. The trail continues generally south, a fairly easy, well-shaded, scenic stroll that gradually loses elevation as it approaches the Canyon. You may not notice the elevation change on the way out, but you will on the hike back.

Small, easy-to-miss signs mark a couple of faint side trails that lead west, but the main trail grinds steadily south. Along the way you're liable to spot deer, rabbits and maybe a turkey or two.

About 5 miles into the hike, you'll start getting glimpses of white cliffs through the trees to the east. Soon afterward, the trail bends to the southwest and continues only a few yards from the Canyon's edge. In most places, you'll find steep, brushy slopes instead of sheer cliffs. A little before reaching Tiyo Point, the trail drifts away from the rim. It finally ends at a large loop.

Tiyo Point is fairly brushy, with restricted views. But a short, unofficial side trail leads to a large open area to the south.

Return the way you came, allowing 6 hours for the moderately strenuous, 12.6-mile hike.

Getting there: From the lodge, go north 2.5 miles to the signed turnoff to the Widforss Trailhead (on the left a half-mile north of the North Kaibab Trailhead). Go west 4.2 miles to the unsigned road on the left. A four-wheel drive, high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended.