Chef Gio Osso turns lamb into Easter centerpiece

Chef Gio Osso was 4 years old and loitering in his Italian family's kitchen when an uncle pulled a majestic lamb from a wood-fired brick oven.

The occasion remains fuzzy, but Osso calls the sight and intoxicating smell of lamb his first indelible food memory.

To date, Osso celebrates most holidays with lamb.

"It's both wonderful, versatile and a symbolic food that should always be on the Easter table," said Osso, chef of Virtù Honest Craft, a Scottsdale spot that earned a 2014 James Beard Award nomination for best new restaurant.

In Christian theology, lamb symbolizes Jesus' self-sacrifice as the "Lamb of God." But the concept of a sacrificial lamb dates back to pagan times — lamb symbolized spring, a season when lambs were ready for slaughter.

Whether a whole lamb, shank, loin or leg, lamb remains the traditional centerpiece of the Easter meal throughout the Mediterranean. Not so much in the U.S.

According to a survey by the American Lamb Board, nearly 40 percent of Americans have never eaten lamb.

"I'm always surprised when someone says they don't like lamb, or won't try lamb because it is gamy. It's really a wonderful, rich-tasting meat that takes well to so many different flavors," said Osso, whose childhood lamb was "old-school," seasoned with garlic and rosemary, served with mint jelly.

Today, he scraps family tradition for lamb prepared with strapping Mediterranean flavors, from a harisa-and-honey glaze to a Spanish-inspired, serrano-wrapped loin.

"Lamb goes so well with big, bold flavors, like a punch in the mouth. But in the Mediterranean, the punch is balanced with clean and fresh," Osso said.

For the best flavor, he recommends serving lamb medium-rare to medium. Medium-rare lamb is pinkish red and reads 130 degrees on a meat thermometer. Medium lamb has a trace of pink and reads 140 degrees on a meat thermometer.

Cooking to well-done dries out the meat and flattens the flavor, which Osso compares to "salting and eating a napkin."

Another tip: Allow lamb to sit for about 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

Choose lamb, whether American or foreign, that is light red and finely textured. Avoid meat with a purple tinge or dark spots — signs that the lamb is old. Bones should be reddish and moist. The fat should be creamy, white and tightly trimmed. Lamb's tenderness does not rely on marbling, unlike beef.

Although drawn to lamb for its flavor, Osso also appreciates that the nutrient-rich meat fits into the healthy Mediterranean lifestyle. Lamb is an excellent source of vitamin B-12, niacin, zinc and selenium. Lamb also is an all-natural product, raised without hormones.

About 40 percent of the fat in lean cuts of lamb is monounsaturated, the same kind of fat found in olive oil.

For side dishes, Osso weaves in more Mediterranean flavors in Moroccan-spiced baby carrots and yogurt, chunky chickpeas, sauteed eggplant and fried potatoes topped with tomatoes, cumin and lemon aioli.

"Easter celebrates spring and renewal, and those are the flavors you want for the holiday meal," he said. "Fresh, bold and blended together."​

Details: Virtù Honest Craft, at Bespoke Inn, 3701 N. Marshall Way, Scottsdale. 480-946-3477, virtuscottsdale.com.

Cuts of lamb

Chef Gio Osso shares three recipes for the lamb loin or rack. But the cut of lamb, like most meats, is a matter of preference. Here are the choices:

Leg of lamb: This large, lean and tender cut is a classic holiday favorite. Only a lamb's hind legs produce roasts. Legs are sold bone-in, boneless, rolled and tied or butterflied. The leg can be cut into smaller leg roasts or leg steaks that are excellent for grilling.

Lamb chops: Cut small enough to serve as individual portions, chops often are grilled, broiled or pan-fried. There are several choices, beginning with the most elegant — the rib and loin chop. The sirloin chop and leg chop are not as tender.

Lamb loin roast: Also called the saddle, a boneless loin roast can be roasted whole or cut into chops and grilled. Loins are versatile, flavorful and the most expensive cut.

Rack of lamb: This popular presentation, a portion of rib section, also can be served whole or sliced and served as individual rib chops. A rack usually contains eight ribs.