Scenic drive: Vermilion Cliffs, Arizona Strip
Driving U.S. 89A along the Arizona Strip gives a visceral feel for how this part of the West is a great series of vast plateaus ending in heart-stopping drop-offs. On the north side of the road are the stark, nearly vertical Vermilion Cliffs; on the south, the flat land ends with a plunge straight to the Colorado River.
Things to note:
Navajo Bridge: This structure was built in 1993 to replace the 1929 bridge, just a few yards away, that was only 18 feet wide. You can park and walk over the old bridge, and an area is set aside where Navajo people sell jewelry and other items.
Details: 928-355-2319, nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/visitorcenters.htm.
Lees Ferry: This is the put-in spot for river runners and trout anglers. Explore the remains of the ferry and Lonely Dell Ranch, built by Mormon pioneer John D. Lee and two of his wives in the 1870s. The grassy, sandy paths through the ferry area and ranch can be enjoyed by just about everyone. Hardier hikers will like the steep, rocky, 2.5-mile Spencer Trail, which gives fantastic views of the river. The entrance to Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and Lees Ferry is on the north side of U.S. 89A just west of Navajo Bridge. Take your time driving the 6 or so miles to the river; the road is filled with gorgeous views and wild rock formations.
Details:nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/lees-ferry.htm.
Buffalo Ranch: This ranch dates to the turn of the 20th century when Charles Jesse "Buffalo" Jones tried to breed "cattalo," a cross between cattle and buffalo. The experiment failed, but Jones eventually bred a viable herd of buffalo, now managed by the Arizona Game and Fish Department.
The road meanders along the base of the forested Cocks Comb. From U.S. 89A, look for the wildlife-viewing sign about 23 miles west of Navajo Bridge and turn left on Forest Road 8910. The graded dirt road is suitable for most cars, but you may prefer a high-clearance vehicle. Have a good map, as there are numerous crisscrossing roads.
Total mileage: About 625 miles round trip. From central Phoenix, take Interstate 17 north to Flagstaff, Interstate 40 east through the city, then U.S. 89 north to Bitter Springs. Go north on U.S. 89A 14 miles to Navajo Bridge, then 41 miles to Jacob Lake, atop the Kaibab Plateau. Return to Phoenix the opposite way. (The portion of U.S. 89 that collapsed in 2013 is north of the Bitter Springs turnoff.)
Don't miss: Treat yourself to a heavenly chocolate-chip cookie or other baked treat at the Jacob Lake general store at the junction of U.S. 89A and Arizona 67. 928-643-7232, jacoblake.com. For dinner, eat at Lees Ferry Lodge in Marble Canyon, about 4 miles west of the bridge. Robust entrees come with soup, salad, potato and vegetable. Try the grilled steak or a rack of ribs. Beer drinkers will enjoy perusing the lengthy list of interesting bottles. 928-355-2231, vermilioncliffs.com.