Restaurant Gems: Yasu Sushi Bistro goes beyond raw fish

Don't let the word "sushi" in its name fool you into thinking that Yasu Sushi Bistro is only about raw fish.

Yes, the sushi is superb — affable master chef Yasu Hashino brings in most of his seafood from Asian waters. But he has plenty of other bullets in his Japanese-kitchen holster, and he fires them directly into the bull's eye.

The specialty here is actually sumibiyaki, which refers to skewers of meat, poultry, fish and vegetables grilled over mesquite, whose flames impart a smoky sizzle. Among the most tempting skewers are the ones threaded with chicken meatballs, Japanese eggplant, pike, black cod, lamb chops and scallops with uni cream sauce. Looking for a bit of adventure? Try bamboo-wrapped beef tongue. Looking for a gourmet splurge? The ultra-tender Japanese Wagyu beef can make you woozy.

While the standard menu items — sushi rolls, yellowtail tartare, chicken karaage, salmon-skin salad, soba noodles, soft-shell crab tempura — are as good as anywhere in town, perhaps your wisest strategy is to explore the knockout house specialties.

That way, you get to experience cornflake shrimp, sake-steamed clams, Parmigiano cream cheese scallops, shrimp fondue and eel-wrapped foie gras.

Don't be put off by Yasu's retail-strip location, a few doors down from a Circle K. Inside, it's a comfortable, good-looking spot. For total serenity, arm yourself immediately with a Japanese beer — it can take a while for your order to come out.

Details: Yasu Sushi Bistro, 4316 E. Cactus Road, Phoenix. 602-787-9181, yasusushibistro.com.

"Restaurant Gems" showcases the finest restaurants the Valley has to offer. From mom-and-pop spots to kitchens run by celebrated chefs, we profile eateries picked by our dining critic and give you the grand tour. See more of this occasional series at gems.azcentral.com.