Raze or renovate? Arizona State Fairgrounds faces uncertain future

Jessica Boehm Lily Altavena
The Republic | azcentral.com
Don Ryden from Ryden Architects takes a tour of the Plaza Building at the Arizona State Fairgrounds.

The Arizona State Fairgrounds have witnessed many of the most important moments of Arizona's history. But it's unclear if they will survive to be part of the state's future. 

Throughout its 134-year existence, the fairgrounds in midtown Phoenix have played host to some of the world's most influential leaders, musical performers, professional sports teams and world-champion cowboys and cowgirls.

"This is, has been and should ever be a point of pride for the state," said Don Ryden, a historic preservation architect.

But not everyone shares his affinity for the stretch of concrete and aging buildings on the northeast corner of 19th Avenue and McDowell Road.

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Are the fair's days numbered?

In recent years, a growing number of complaints about the fairgrounds have surfaced as midtown Phoenix has become one of the Valley's hottest areas for growth. 

When the fair or other large events aren't in progress, the grounds are a "dead zone" — an ugly "sea of parking," according to neighbors. When the fair is in town, some who live and work nearby grumble about the noise, the traffic, the mess and the crowd the event draws.

 Additionally, the buildings on the fairgrounds, many of which were built in the 1930s and 1940s, are aging and require major financial investments to get them back to full functionality. The Arizona Exposition and State Fair Board estimates it would take more than $16 million to remedy all of the issues on the grounds.

In 2014, the board nearly demolished arguably the most historically significant building on the fairgrounds, which began discussions about the long-term plan for the property.

RELATED:  State Fair board shelves plan to demolish 1938 building

Gov. Doug Ducey added uncertainty about the fairgrounds' future when he said last year he would be open to moving the State Fair to a new location.

Over the weekend, the Governor's Office, fair board and state historic preservation office invited residents to participate in a four-day planning session to share ideas for the future of the fairgrounds.

While all participants said the grounds needed significant changes to remain viable, the vast majority of them — who were mostly neighbors in nearby historic districts, architects and preservation advocates — said they wanted the depression-era structures and the fair to stay.

"I think that the ideas that came out of there could breathe life into the fair if it stays in its current location," state Rep. Ken Clark, D-Phoenix, said. 

'We would hate to see the fair leave'

Bob Graham, a Phoenix architect who specializes in historic preservation, said he believes the State Fair board wrongly assumed the surrounding neighborhoods don't support the fair.

"They told us that they felt like they weren't wanted," Graham said. "I said, 'Look, if you reached out to ... the historic neighborhoods, the preservation community and ... all these other groups, you're going to find that we have a lot of people who are really interested in helping you. You're not alone in this.'"

G.G. George, president of both the Encanto Citizens Association and Phoenix Historic Neighborhoods Coalition, said the neighbors want the State Fair to stay where it is — but they want the grounds beautified. 

George recently wrote a book chronicling the history of the State Fair and said she'd like the depression-era buildings — or possibly the entire fairgrounds — placed on the National Register of Historic Places to ensure their long-term protection.

"We would hate to see the fair leave. We want to help the fair in any way that we can," she said.

At the beginning of the seminar, participants were asked to take sticky notes and write down what they'd like to see in different areas on the grounds. Here's a sampling of those ideas:

  • "Buy out residents to east and make it bigger."
  • "Maintenance deferrals notwithstanding, the patina and character of the fairgrounds is as familiar and comfortable as Frasier's dad's recliner in the midst of its otherwise cosmopolitan surroundings. It has a therapeutic value that, though difficult to quantify, is of immense value and must be preserved."
  • "Garden space inside cattle barn during summer."
  • "Build parking garage."
  • "Why not introduce neighborhood retail in north portion."
  • "Murals."
  • "Grass field for dog training events/classes."
  • "Meeting room space for community groups."
  • "Kill all the parking lots — connect to Grand Ave Streetcar line!"
  • "Move 'carney' (sic) RVs to 19th Ave instead of near houses."

At the end of the planning seminar, the ideas became more focused. 

Four different, though similar, plans emerged that would keep the iconic fair buildings and get rid of some of the less-important structures to create more access and visibility. Some of the groups also suggested new structures or reactivated areas that would make the grounds usable all year. 

'Highest and best use'?

Most of the people who attended the session were pro-preservation. But there are people, especially in the development world, who questioned the property's value as a fairground. 

Parrish Silva, who recently graduated from Arizona State University's Master of Real Estate Development program, asked the other attendees to consider whether some of the structures on the 88-acre property were really the "highest and best use" for that chunk of land. 

Standing a the base of the grandstands, Silva talked about the development potential for the land because of its proximity to Phoenix's growing downtown, which was visible in the distance. 

He suggested that some of the unique and historic buildings on the property should be saved and re-purposed for new uses like a food hall or agricultural program for one of the state universities. 

Other structures, like the outdated grandstands, could go to make way for new projects, Parrish said. 

However, he said he doesn't want the grounds to turn into "another housing development" or something else commonplace. Instead, he said, it should capture the state's history and provide a gathering space for the community. 

He said he'd like to see all of Phoenix's developers come together and throw out ideas for the future of the land.

"We can make something that Phoenix can be proud of," Silva said. "I just see a chance to really build a community." 

Biggest challenge: Money

The state will release a final report, based on the suggestions provided by the community, this summer. 

But all of the proposed suggestions cost money — money the fair doesn't have, and couldn't spend even if it did. 

The Arizona Exposition and State Fair Board does not receive tax dollars from the state. Instead, it uses the money it generates from the fair and other events. But the state caps how much of its generated money the board can spend. 

The board can spend $12 million annually on general operations and $1 million on repairs and improvements. To put it into perspective, fair officials say there are currently more than $16 million of necessary repairs.

"We are capped and cannot spend beyond that regardless of how much revenue we generate in a single year," said Michael Searle, deputy director of the fair board.

The rest of the money the fair generates is placed in a reserve fund — which the governor and state Legislature can sweep in times of "economic need."

Searle said the state has swept $13 million over the past 15 years.

Clark, the state representative for the area, said the Legislature has done a "miserable job at protecting our historic heritage at the fairgrounds." 

He said he hopes Ducey will review the information shared at the planning seminar and take on a leadership role to ensure historic preservation of the structures at the fairgrounds. 

Buildings and their needed repairs

Here's a look at the fairgrounds' most iconic buildings and the cost of needed improvements to each structure. The improvements include basic things like updated fire-safety technology, roof repairs and wall replacements. 

Veterans Memorial Coliseum, near 19th Avenue and McDowell Road, was constructed on the Arizona state fairgrounds and became the first home of the Phoenix Suns.

Veteran's Memorial Coliseum: $2.97 million

Year built: 1965.

History: The coliseum initially served as the home arena for the Western Hockey League's Phoenix Roadrunners and the National Basketball Association's Phoenix Suns. It received the nickname "Madhouse on McDowell" during the Suns era. The 15,000-seat coliseum has hosted world-renowned musicians like Elvis Presley and The Rolling Stones, dignitaries like Pope John Paul II and former presidents George W. Bush and Barack Obama.

Current Use: The coliseum is still used for concerts and rallies. Then-presidential candidate Donald Trump hosted a rally at the venue in 2016. 

Neighbors, community activists and architects from Phoenix take a tour of the Arizona State Fairgrounds. They gathered to help determine what parts of the Arizona State Fairgrounds should be fixed because they don't have enough money to repair the crumbling, yet historic buildings.

Cattle Barn: $1.79 million

Year built: Early to mid-1940s.

History: In the livestock community, the cattle barn's show ring is considered one of the best and most historic in the country. The quaint arena has a Lamella truss roof, and the show ring is surrounded by red wooden stadium seats and a working milk parlor.

Current Use: Youth still show cattle in the building at three events per year: The Arizona National Livestock Show, the Arizona State Fair and the Maricopa County Fair.

Grandstand Arena: $1.67 million

Year  built: 1936.

History: The Works Progress Administration, a federal agency that led projects to put people to work during the Great Depression, built the grandstands after the original wooden grandstands burnt down. Actress Marilyn Monroe shot scenes from the film Bus Stop in the Grandstand Arena in 1955.

Current use: The 5,000-seat grandstands are used year-round for rodeo and automotive events. Out of respect for the surrounding neighborhood, events must end by 9 p.m.

WPA Administrative Building

Year built: 1938.

History: The structure was also built by WPA and served as the agency's Arizona headquarters. Following the New Deal program, the building was used for a number of purposes, including office space, a gift shop and mineral showroom. It has sat vacant since 2005. The Arizona Exposition and State Fair Board nearly demolished the building in 2014 to make way for additional vendor space and access off of McDowell Road. An uproar by preservationists halted the demolition, but its long-term protection is still in flux. 

Current use: The building has no power and is not open to the public.

Cost of repairs: State Fair and Exposition Board's improvement plan lists $250,000 as the cost for the building's demolition. A restoration could cost up to $1 million.

Neighbors, community activists and architects from the Phoenix takes a tour of Gem And Mineral Building at the Arizona State Fairgrounds.

Gem and Mineral Building: $95,000

Year built: 1918.

History: The Gem and Mineral Building is the oldest structure on the State Fairgrounds and once displayed rare stones and mining technology. The white-brick building opens up to a small exhibition space with a grand staircase and wrap-around indoor balcony. 

Current use: The building is hardly used for public events because its upper level is not compliant with the Americans with Disabilities Act. Private groups sometimes rent the building for parties and weddings.

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